Hacker News Board Hacker News, browsed like a classic message board
Live data from Hacker News

Normal Operating Sounds

tesla.com

Post reply on HN
Print view View original

111–120 of 273 posts

Re: Normal Operating Sounds

#111

Post by kuerbel »

CraigJPerry wrote: post #77
bhasi wrote: post #61

"Creaking From the Tires or Brakes" I don't have a Tesla, but I hear this sound in my own car, especially now that it's winter. I began hearing this after my recent car service that involved a ~real~ rear brakes replacement. When I took my car to the service guy, it was afternoon and I was no longer able to reproduce the noise. This was driving me crazy until now! I now know it's nothing to worry about.

I’m not sure I agree with Tesla on this diagnosis. To me that sound is metal rubbing against metal with friction. Before I investigated pads and discs, my first port of call would have been any ball joints. I don’t know the typical Tesla suspension make up but if there’s any bottom ball joint at the control arm / wheel carrier interface or tie-rod end, then that would be first. Either way, definitely sounded like a f…

This one is normal (every tesla I know of does this, ymmv of course). However their older model 3 and y were equipped with some very shoddy engineered suspension arms which, over time, started to creak because water can enter them. Also all the water from the front window was/is distributed more or less directly over the suspension arms. Newer models have somewhat better suspension arms equipped.

Re: Normal Operating Sounds

#112

Post by stavros »

londons_explore wrote: post #102
dosshell wrote: post #92

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Interesting, that does not sound efficient? How much more efficient than using electrical heating directly instead? 0F ? That can't be right? My Mitsubishi gives heat to around -31F (MSZ-RW Sumo)

The efficiency of electrical resistance heating is exactly the same whether you use motor coil resistance or resistance wire. However, they simplify their system design a little (fewer contactors, fewer wires, fewer components to buy/test)

It's not the same if you generate the heat outside and bring it inside, though. I don't know enough about where the fan is located to know if that's what you mean, but that would be different.

Re: Normal Operating Sounds

#113

Post by pests »

AYBABTME wrote: post #14

The loud "pops" at superchargers and when driving after supercharging surprised me for a while. I would stop to look under the car if I had hit something. The pops while charging are sort of self-explanatory, but those while driving took me a while to associate back to the prior supercharging. Basically, changes in temperatures are causing the pops. It's kind of weird and slightly annoying. Sometimes it happens for q…

They also had a recall on the pressure release valves. The car was allowing the pressure to get too high inside thr battery and would make a pop on release.

Re: Normal Operating Sounds

#114

Post by raccoonDivider »

stavros wrote: post #112
londons_explore wrote: post #102

Earlier quoted context omitted.

The efficiency of electrical resistance heating is exactly the same whether you use motor coil resistance or resistance wire. However, they simplify their system design a little (fewer contactors, fewer wires, fewer components to buy/test)

It's not the same if you generate the heat outside and bring it inside, though. I don't know enough about where the fan is located to know if that's what you mean, but that would be different.

Logically you'd keep as many parts as possible inside, where the temperature is easier to control?

Re: Normal Operating Sounds

#115

Post by l33tman »

bb123 wrote: post #100
spike021 wrote: post #41

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I have a relatively analogue car (Subaru BRZ) and there are times when you shut it off on a warm day and then randomly about ten mins later a radiator fan kicks on. I guess it's to help cool down but I don't remember exactly what the manual says. Basically it's cool how cars do things largely on their own sometimes to stay within certain parameters.

This is due to a phenomenon called heat soak which is where the engine temperature increases above normal for a time after it has been switched off due to the lack of coolant flow. The fan is coming on to aid cooling the engine/engine bay to reduce the effect of heat soak. With carburettor fed engines it is sometimes advised by the manufacturer to allow the engine to idle for some time after running it at high RPM. T…

same issue with projector lamps, the fan is kept on for a while after you shut them off

Re: Normal Operating Sounds

#116

Post by bad_alloc »

Renaults unofficial slogan is " tous les jours un bruit nouveau", which means "every day a new noise".

... which is not that wrong with the Zoe. Especially the E-brake has some bark to it.

Re: Normal Operating Sounds

#117

Post by literalAardvark »

sbierwagen wrote: post #96
jacquesm wrote: post #58

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Such a slow warmup is probably also bad for your engine (the oil will be super hard to pump around so you'll have very little lubrication and very high oil pressure until it warms up a bit) so that block heater may well be useful in more ways than one. You may want to look into oil that flows better at low temps in winter based on what temperature your engine eventually reaches when it is fully warmed up. There is a…

It's supposed to run 5W-30 but for the cold months I do 5W-20. After watching the Project Farm metal on metal wear tests of 0W oils, and the fact I'm not running the engine at -20C, I'm not eager to go any lighter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtSwaF2evTU

Do 0w-30 not Xw-20. The number on the left is cold temperature performance, where cold temperature =not at operating temperature.

The number on the right is in the manual and you only change it when you go to the track.

Atm you're running a lighter oil than your car is designed to use and it's very likely to be a bad idea.

In the video you linked the only oils you can compare in the way he is comparing them are the 0w-20 and the 5w-20.

Later edit: I've watched that and since the tests the oils only at cold temperature it is entirely inconclusive wrt protection at operating temperature.

And cooking test is just dumb. Your oil rarely above operating spec. The only oil exposure to above spec temps is the oil in the top side while the engine is cooking after being stopped, and the oil in the burn chamber which burns and is then filtered out.

If you want to know how your oil is doing collect it after a service interval and send it to be tested.

Re: Normal Operating Sounds

#120

Post by pests »

londons_explore wrote: post #103
JasonSage wrote: post #82

Earlier quoted context omitted.

This is 100% correct. For those curious, the coolant around the engine block can boil and flow upwards after the engine is off, and the coolant circulation system is designed to handle this pattern. You can observe this yourself if you overfill your coolant and take it out on a hot day, the excess hot coolant will bubble up and run out for a good while after the engine is off. I second the advice that if the engine i…

It's also a common cause of breakdowns... The fan normally cools the radiator, but the temperature sensor is on a coolant hose. Since the engine is stopped coolant isn't flowing so the fan isn't cooling the same thing the sensor is sensing, which means it can end up running for 30 mins or more. Since the fan can be 20 amps or so, you can easily kill old car batteries due to this effect. User comes back after an hour…

Isn't that feature the exact one being discussed in this threads in order to not overheat the engine though?
Post reply on HN