I did a lot of research on graph database technologies recently and read a lot of these "let's compare X to Y" articles. What I found is that most benchmarks - especially those done by people affiliated with a given product - often tend to show a distorted and sometimes plain wrong picture. For example, concerning the performance and scalability of graph databases the main argument of proponents of this technology is…
I've worked with graph data stored in rdbms in the medical informatics space. As you say, there are ways to correctly handle complex graph data in rdbms.
I've also used neo4j as the backend for a wall street analytics app that's in production. Could it have been done in rdms? Sure, but the ad hoc queries that needed to be run against the data were much easier to express as graph traversals than SQL.
There are some obvious downsides with using a graph database, mainly that it's practically impossible to find programmers with non trivial production experience, but it's been a great fit at the two startups I used it at since I got to implement it from the ground up and didn't need a large team.
That being said, database pragmatism is the main lesson to be learned here. Use the right tool(s) for the right jobs.