Bookmarked. Looks like a great project. A bit off topic but semi related as this requires 3D printed parts. What’s a HN recommended 3d printer?
Show HN: 3dasd – open-source DIY room-scale 3D scanner
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Re: Show HN: 3dasd – open-source DIY room-scale 3D scanner
#42Bookmarked. Looks like a great project. A bit off topic but semi related as this requires 3D printed parts. What’s a HN recommended 3d printer?
The Creality Ender 3 is probably the best entry-level 3D printer you can get. It does need a tiny bit of tinkering in some case, but it can print incredibly well, for a pretty low price.
If you just want to print as well but without any risk, a Prusa i3 pre-assembled is the best bet, but it does cost 4x+ the price of an Ender 3.
Re: Show HN: 3dasd – open-source DIY room-scale 3D scanner
#43Earlier quoted context omitted.
Great project Daniel! Really cool that you're venturing out of software land. Looks like you would have learned a lot about Arduino from this! I've recently been playing around with 3D scanning, but using photogrammetry. You could record high res video or take high res photographs of a scene, and then use the program Meshroom or colmap to convert those photos (cut video in to 1fps stills) in to a 3D model. If you wan…
In my experience, photogrammetry had issues with transparent and reflective surfaces, so wooden floor or brushes metal kitchen appliances wouldn't work well. As for the scale, you can always just bring a measurement stick and place it on the floor so that you have an object with known sizes to use to calibrate the scale after the 3d recognition. The gold standard in my opinion is a laser pattern protector in combinat…
Lasers will also have problems with anything reflective, or transparent to the wrong wavelengths.
Re: Show HN: 3dasd – open-source DIY room-scale 3D scanner
#44Earlier quoted context omitted.
if you really care about backlash, just measure it and then add a correction in your motor controller. Another way to do this is to always move back to endstop zero, and only move forward. THis is very limiting. The biggest problem I had was all my PLA prints melted in the direct sun!
> if you really care about backlash At 1200 mm equivalent a picture is only about 1.15° high, so accuracy is important :) > just measure it and then add a correction in your motor controller. I think your first idea doesn't really work for tilting because there is little friction and the camera isn't going to be perfectly balanced (the center of gravity also changes with the focal length and even the focus). When gra…
I've built a similar device to this (originally for a solar tracker that keeps the sun at high magnification in the middle of the frame, but it turns out to be ideal for panos as well).
It's a DSLR with crop sensor, 300mm lens, stepper+gear for azimuth and stepper+belt for altitude (with gearing to get more torque for both). I used this system with Hugin to assemble 180 degree x 180 degree, 5 degree azimuth and altitude steps (so, about 5X your resolution, I don't have the same zoom as you). Results are great- I can give this straight to hugin, update a PTO file with my known angles, and it assembles without any futher optimization. I do pan with a planned path.
If the belts are real tight, backlash is neglible (seems to be a lot smaller than any gear I could print). If you're having that much backlash on tilt (that it's shaky and sensitive) I think you might need to re-engineer the frame to be more stiff (which will cause the shakes to dissipate faster) or tune your motors (tuning velocity and acceleration). You might also be able to use a spring to keep the gear in place. I tried to get a 3D-printed worm gear working, but never made it compact enough to be practical for the altitude.
I had white PLA, in direct sunlight/90F ambient for hours, and it warped. I only noticed because I was inside watching the incoming images and the altitude staged started to "melt" causing massive positional losses.
Re: Show HN: 3dasd – open-source DIY room-scale 3D scanner
#45Bookmarked. Looks like a great project. A bit off topic but semi related as this requires 3D printed parts. What’s a HN recommended 3d printer?
Regards your specific question, many start with an Ender 3 series. I did, no regrets. It performs well out of the box while you become aware of what the possibilities are. Some expensive printers will have features costing more than an Ender 3, so this is worthwhile learning.
If you have the $$$ to skip this step then you can. But I don't know what bigger/better printer to go for as I have not the budget/space for one.
Other thoughts:
1. 3D model considerations take significant time. Even trying to minimise effort in modelling, many models are not printable without at least some tweak.
2. There is much to be gained from using less material. Reduced cost/wastage and increased speed for end results. Software does support this of course but the details will take time.
3. Different printing techs need different approaches to the model. IE Resin printing may need drainage to let unhardened resin leak out. FDM printing may need supports.
TL;DR there is plenty to learn, budget time accordingly whatever $ you have.
Would I do it again? Absolutely.
Edit: concision, realisation may not desire a budget approach.
Re: Show HN: 3dasd – open-source DIY room-scale 3D scanner
#46Re: Show HN: 3dasd – open-source DIY room-scale 3D scanner
#47I wonder if it would be possible to use the same module or moving and interface with with the lidar/camera of the iphone 12. The project could be even cheeper and probably the accuracy increase.
Re: Show HN: 3dasd – open-source DIY room-scale 3D scanner
#48On Android if you have a powerful enough phone (or better, built in Lidar) then the "3D Live Scanner" app by Lubos Vonasek Programmierung is something to checkout.
Re: Show HN: 3dasd – open-source DIY room-scale 3D scanner
#49Bookmarked. Looks like a great project. A bit off topic but semi related as this requires 3D printed parts. What’s a HN recommended 3d printer?
The Creality Ender 3 is probably the best entry-level 3D printer you can get. It does need a tiny bit of tinkering in some case, but it can print incredibly well, for a pretty low price. If you just want to print as well but without any risk, a Prusa i3 pre-assembled is the best bet, but it does cost 4x+ the price of an Ender 3.
I've started with a Creality CR-10S, and later on get a Prusa MK3S, meanwhile my brother took the old CR-10S, and get two Ender 3s.
I have to admit, that the CR-10S, and the Ender 3 is a lot of printer for the amount of money they sell them for - though, of course, you need to be prepared to fiddle with the printer more. But if you dial it in, and you gain experience, there aren't a lot of things you couldn't do.
I built my own Prusa, I think it's a fun experience, if you like building. My CR-10S came in two parts, I needed to screw them together... my MK3S came like a car after a crash test. But since put together, I haven't had to touch it, it operates like a wonder.
Of course a Prusa's price tag is much steeper compared to an Ender's. Prusa is an European product, the construction in my opinion is better, and they take a lot of care of the hardware and software. I don't want to go into nationalistic battles, but I was happy that I could buy a local product. Our Ender 3 didn't have a bootloader installed, so when we wanted to update the firmware to a more up-to-date Marlin, we had to take apart the machine, and flash a bootloader on the AVR, which is... troublesome for somebody who doesn't know about microcontroller flashing too much.
Regardless, I think for a beginner, the Ender has an extremely good value, and perfect to get into 3D printing, as it opens so many possibilities. I could print parts for the household, which I wouldn't ever find anywhere else. I've fixed multiple household appliances. The freedom that if I need something special, I can make it.
Re: Show HN: 3dasd – open-source DIY room-scale 3D scanner
#50Bookmarked. Looks like a great project. A bit off topic but semi related as this requires 3D printed parts. What’s a HN recommended 3d printer?
My boss got me hooked on Markforged. (Caveat, my next home printer is probably a Prusa.)
They are ridiculously expensive compared to alternatives, but the printed parts are on a whole other level, as they are a carbon-reinforced Nylon: They are much more fracture resistant and mechanically stable than PLA or ABS. They're a U.S. company and are very responsive to support requests. The printer build quality is good, I rarely had parts warp or detach, and the ability to print without deformation at a 60 degree overhang and 50 micron layer allowed printing parts pretapped for machine screws. The cloud software keeps a good catalog of your .STLs and allows some degree of slicer tinkering. Also, you can start a print remotely, which is awesome when you want to go home, finish a part, start it at night, and it's already on the build platform when you show up the next day. (The pricier models show photos remotely, so you can abort a failed job from home. The top-of-the-line model can laser scan specific layers and does its calibration automatically.)
At that job, we had printers of wildly different price category and technology---Form 2, uPrint, Carbon 3d, NanoDimension, ProJet MJP 5600, Fortus---and the workhorse for getting decent parts out quickly was overwhelmingly the Markforged.
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With all that in mind, I would never buy a Markforged for my home because I don't print enough to justify the cost. If I ran a general purpose printing lab, it would be my absolute first choice. I also wouldn't buy a non-European/non-American printer as a personal, moral preference. So, I'm waiting until the end of November to buy a Prusa, because that seems to be the only time they are discounted.