> Is this how it's like at all large companies?
Pretty much, yes. There are lots of reasons why all that crap that happened to you was necessary, and it's directly a factor of it being a big-ass company. Large systems are inefficient and complex.
> What should I do?
What do you want to do?
Large companies may kill your soul and make you lose all interest in your career, because you are reduced to an ungreased cog in an extremely rickety, rusted, pointless wheel. If you would rather ship cool new stuff quickly, you should quit and go find more engaging work.
But if you have a family and just need to pay the bills, there are much worse things than decades of steady employment. You can also often move laterally throughout the company, play with new technology, or be exposed to new products/services, without having to have actually gotten any real work done. Some people even get side gigs and double up their income. Working in large companies can also teach you more "professional" ways to do work. Working within large orgs is a skill in itself - the problems you describe can often be trivially worked around by building relationships outside your team. Most "restrictions" imposed by "managers" are actually just bullshit politics that you can route around if you learn the reasons for it all.
By the way: if you leave, try to tweak your benefits so that they pay out all the 401K or HSA money at the beginning of the year (front-loading). When you quit you won't have to have waited all year to contribute tax-deferred benefits to your retirement accounts.