If you have the means, get a computer science degree at a reasonable school, and don't listen to people telling it's too late, and that ML is your meal ticket. We have two kinds of jobs here in the valley, the glamorous and competitive, and the really challenging and necessary. The latter are more immune to hype cycles and economic downturns. If you do something along the lines of networking/security, cloud infrastructure, and learn something that confuses other people, say, how to use OAuth2 properly as an example, you will be able to work on the infra side in almost any company. Once you get your foot in the door, then you can learn the latest hottest fad wherever it is that you are, on the job. Infrastructure is the computer industry version of cleaning out the stables for the horses, but it's also necessary everywhere and once you prove yourself and show you are capable of learning on the job, you can work on other stuff. If you start to enjoy infra stuff, you can work anywhere. Don't get stuck doing any kind of process though, don't be the compliance guy, for example.
The biggest shortage in silicon valley is that of capable minds and hands. It's on you to make yourself marketable, but once that's done, there's tons of opportunity. I've been working here since 1996. I'm a grey haired old timer now, and I've seen this industry from big companies, startups, boring companies, and fad companies. Get your foot in the door, the first job won't be glorious, but as you demonstrate skill, pay and rank will follow. Don't go to any of the companies staffed by lots of startup bros, because a wrinkle or some greying hair is a disadvantage there, but there are plenty of other places to start.