I've been programming a long time and I feel the opposite about modern software. Not having to implement your own batch queuing engine, or write your own map software, or struggle to implement the client side of some vendors API is wonderful.
I would say the combination of cloud services and open source means there is no better time to be a developer. You can get things done as a solo developer that would have been impossible 20 years ago: not having to fret over backups and OS versions because your cloud vendor does it in a serverless system is a massive time saver by itself.
If you're struggling to compete with open source packages when you write code, it's a good sign you are writing the wrong code.
It should be obvious though that the very best systems are always boring to work on. The vast majority of software does boring things (ETL or CRUD or security stuff) and there is no way to make it exciting. There is plenty of satisfaction in making it reliable though. Not everyone can work on the exciting stuff, not everyone is suited to working on the exciting stuff either.